Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Set on the headland at the tip of Old San Juan, El Morro is the fortress that guarded the harbor for four centuries, and the single best introduction to the island’s history. Six levels of golden sandstone step down toward the Atlantic, connected by ramps, tunnels and sentry boxes that look out over water on three sides. Allow two hours. Start at the upper plaza for the view back along the city wall, then work down through the gun decks to the water battery, where the swell hits the rocks below. The great lawn in front of the fort is a local ritual in its own right. On breezy afternoons it fills with families flying kites, and vendors sell piraguas from carts near the gate. Come early, before ten, for cool stone and quiet corridors, or arrive after four for low gold light on the walls and a walk back through the old town as the restaurants open. Your ticket also covers Castillo San Cristóbal, a short walk east, and stays valid for twenty-four hours. From the villa it is around fifteen minutes by car, or a full, easy morning if you fold in breakfast in Old San Juan first.