Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico

When the sky closes in, this is the easiest good decision in the neighborhood. The Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico occupies a restored 1920s hospital building ten minutes from the villa, with a glass and steel wing grafted onto the back. The permanent collection runs from eighteenth-century religious painting through José Campeche and Francisco Oller to contemporary work, and it is hung to be understood rather than admired in silence. Give it two hours and you will leave with a much clearer sense of the island. The five-acre garden behind the building is the part people talk about afterward, with sculpture set among native planting, an orchid pavilion and a lake. Between showers it is worth the walk. There is a good café for lunch and a shop with genuinely nice ceramics and prints if you want something to take home. Check hours before you set off, as the museum closes on Mondays and Tuesdays, and Wednesday evenings are typically free entry and busier for it. It is a short taxi ride from Condado, or a twenty-minute walk if the rain has eased. Pair it with lunch at La Placita, five minutes further on.

The neoclassical facade of the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in Santurce, San Juan